Why Not Go to Cuba?
In 2008 Rossini Bartolotti-Hayward travelled to Cuba to
study guitar at El Instituto Superior del Arte. He recalls his
adventure.
I had wanted to study abroad during my time in the RWCMD since I
had found out it was possible, and it was in early December 2007
when my plans became more concrete. Midway through a lesson with
Head of Guitar Studies, John Mills, he said, “Why not go to Cuba?”
Of course this seemed like a marvellous idea. My mind was
immediately filled with thoughts of rum, cigars and outrageously
beautiful women. So I resolved to do everything in my power to go
to Cuba for as long as possible.
I should probably point out after writing such a paragraph that
I am a devoted musician and wanted to experience Cuba’s vibrant
musical culture, bands playing the music of Buena Vista Social Club
on almost every street corner and people dancing salsa on every
other. What better place to study guitar?
I arrived at Jose Marti International Airport in Havana on the
13th August 2008. I was to study at El Instituto
Superior del Arte (El ISA), the most prestigious educative
institution for the arts in Cuba. I arrived a month before the
start of term in order to settle in and spent this time living in
Habana Vieja in a casa particular. Like bed and breakfasts in the
UK, local families let out their spare rooms but the price and
meals are negotiable.
On my second day in
Cuba, I called the man who would be my guitar teacher and most
trusted friend, Dr. Martin Pedreira Rodriguez. He invited me over
to his place for a chat and to play some music. Being August, it
was stiflingly hot and by the time I reached his apartment on the
7th floor I was covered in sweat. The lift was broken
again he apologised and quickly informed me that in Cuba nothing
works. He handed me his guitar and asked me to play. I started with
Gran Vals by Francisco Tarrega.
In Cuba nothing is easy or obvious. With two different national
currencies – one for tourists and one for locals – it can be very
confusing. I paid 120 times the real price for the first newspaper
I bought, 10 times the price for the first cucumber, 24 times the
price for the first sandwich. I soon learnt that if there’s a queue
for whatever you are trying to buy, or it just doesn’t look great,
the dollar sign represents the locals’ currency.
In early September two hurricanes, Gustav and Ike, h
ad ravaged the land
and delayed the start of term at El ISA until mid-October. So my
mother decided to come out to Cuba for a holiday. I left my guitar
with Martin in Havana and we spent the next month travelling.
I returned a few days before the start of term and resolved to
relocate to the much pleasanter suburb of Vedado. I decided to
self-cater - but this proved quite difficult! The effect of the
hurricanes was still very apparent and on my visits to the market I
found that only the root vegetables had survived well. During this
time I ate mainly potato, bonato and malanga.
Term finally started. I practiced hard and began to reap the
benefits of Martin’s excellent teaching. I soon made some good
friends at El ISA and moved to the suburb of Playa with all the
other foreign students. I rented a really nice flat owned by a
delightful old couple. My hosts were fascinating - Captain Raul
Quintana had fought in the revolution and proudly showed me photos
of himself with Fidel and Raul Castro. He had even been given a car
by Fidel in recognition of his efforts.
I was very happy in this final period. I was enjoying living in
an area full of students. We partied every 
weekend - singing
songs and playing guitars for hours on end - and filled the week
nights with games of chess or trips to the cinema. I befriended
some Columbian opera students who frequently took me to the Teatro
Nacional to watch opera and ballet.
In reflection upon the musical experiences I had, my feelings
are mixed. It is true that bands do play on every street corner but
only in the tourist areas. The moment you leave Habana Vieja the
Cuban style of hip-hop, ‘regeton’ can be heard blasting from every
stereo. I went to a few good guitar recitals and had the pleasure
of seeing Leo Brouwer conducting some of his own orchestral
compositions. And there was always the opportunity to listen to
music in El ISA. People were always practicing and playing to each
other around the institution’s grounds, although this was probably
as much to do with the lack of practice rooms as the wonderful
weather.
I felt a strange combination of sadness and joy as my time to
leave drew near. I was certainly very glad to be going home but I
had grown to love Cuba. The whole experience has given me a kick in
the right direction. I am determined to work hard and make
something of myself as I have more opportunities than so many
people in the world.
After yet more confusion over a letter of permission to leave
the country - I got home just in time for Christmas dinner!
The Royal Welsh College of Music & Drama has enjoyed
links with El Instituto Superior del Arte since 2002. So far we
have been able to send three students to study in Cuba and, with
support from the Welsh Assembly Government, we have welcomed two
professors from Cuba to RWCMD. The Royal Welsh College of Music
& Drama was proud to welcome the Cuban Ambassador for a visit
in October 2009, where talks where held about the possibility of
creating opportunities for Cuban students to come to the College
both to perform and study.
